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Understanding Hair Types, Textures, and Care: A Scientific Guide
Jun
Hair is complex and beautiful so. For many African American individuals, hair is more than an aesthetic feature; it’s an expression of culture, heritage, and identity. Understanding how hair is classified and what that means for care is essential to supporting healthy, resilient strands.
This article explores the science behind hair types and grading systems, categorizes curl patterns, and provides evidence-based insights on the products that can help each type thrive.
The Science of Hair Structure
Hair fiber is composed of three main layers:
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Cuticle
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The outermost layer.
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Consists of overlapping cells like shingles on a roof.
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Protects the inner structures and influences shine, friction, and moisture retention.
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Cortex
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The thickest layer.
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Contains fibrous proteins (keratin) and melanin (color).
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Determines strength, elasticity, and shape.
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Medulla
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The innermost core (sometimes absent in finer hair).
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Less critical in determining hair behavior.
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Texture and curl pattern are primarily influenced by:
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The shape of the hair follicle (round, oval, or flat).
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The angle at which hair emerges from the scalp.
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The degree of asymmetry in keratin distribution along the strand.
The Andre Walker Hair Typing System
One of the most widely referenced systems is the Andre Walker Hair Typing System, developed by Oprah Winfrey’s stylist. Though not without criticism, it provides a useful baseline.
It categorizes hair into four main types with subcategories:
Type 1: Straight
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Lacks curl or wave.
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Generally has more sebum coverage (oil naturally traveling down the shaft).
Subtypes:
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1A: Fine, very straight.
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1B: Medium texture, more body.
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1C: Coarse, resistant to curl.
Note: Straight hair is rare in African American populations.
Type 2: Wavy
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S-shaped waves.
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Less oily than Type 1 but retains some natural sheen.
Subtypes:
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2A: Fine wave.
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2B: Defined wave.
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2C: Thick wave with slight frizz.
Type 3: Curly
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Spiraled curls.
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Prone to frizz, shrinkage, and dryness due to limited sebum distribution.
Subtypes:
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3A: Looser, well-defined curls (approx. circumference of sidewalk chalk).
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3B: Springy ringlets (approx. circumference of a Sharpie).
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3C: Tight corkscrews (approx. circumference of a pencil).
Note: Many African American individuals have Type 3C in combination with 4A.
Type 4: Coily/Kinky
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The tightest curl patterns.
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Most fragile and prone to breakage due to more pronounced bends and flattened follicle shape.
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Often experiences significant shrinkage (up to 75% of length).
Subtypes:
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4A: Soft coils, S-pattern, defined when wet.
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4B: Z-shaped pattern, less defined curl, fluffy.
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4C: Very tight zig-zag, minimal definition, maximum shrinkage.
This range is standard among African American hair and requires specialized moisture retention and handling.
Porosity, Density, and Elasticity: The Overlooked Dimensions
Porosity:
Refers to how easily hair absorbs and retains moisture.
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Low Porosity: Tight cuticles; resists moisture.
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Normal Porosity: Balanced absorption.
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High Porosity: Gaps in cuticle; absorbs quickly but loses moisture fast.
Density:
How many strands are on the scalp (thin, medium, thick).
Elasticity:
Hair’s ability to stretch and return without breaking.
Understanding these dimensions is just as crucial as the curl pattern.
Evidence-Based Approaches to Care by Type
Type 3 Hair (Curly):
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Needs lightweight hydration to define curls and reduce frizz.
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Leave-ins with humectants (glycerin) and film-formers (polyquaterniums) work well.
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Occasional oils or butters help seal moisture, but avoid heavy buildup.
Type 4 Hair (Coily/Kinky):
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Requires consistent moisture and protection.
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Products should combine humectants, emollients, and conditioning agents.
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Detangling should be done with slip-enhancing treatments.
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Protective styles can help reduce stress from manipulation.
How DRIP Supports Textured Hair
DRIP by AlbiGlow was explicitly designed to address the structural and functional challenges of Type 3C–4C hair:
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Humectant-rich formulation draws in moisture to combat chronic dryness.
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Lightweight emollients create slip and help detangle without weight.
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Film-formers and pH-balanced conditioning smooth the cuticle and improve resilience.
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No heavy silicones or oils that can cause buildup or block moisture pathways.
Final Thoughts
Your hair type is not a limitation, it’s a blueprint for how to care for it. Whether you’re wearing your hair natural, in protective styles, or transitioning, understanding your texture and porosity empowers you to make informed choices.
Science-based hair care, like AlbiGlow DRIP, is built on respect for the unique needs of textured hair. Because when you have the right tools and the knowledge, you can celebrate your hair in all its brilliance.
